What’s Kraken?

Welcome to “Whats Kraken!” , a podcast produced by four students from UC Santa Cruz studying abroad; Finely, Charles, Shaya, and Naomi. We will dive into three marine myths popular along the Dingle Peninsula; the Selkie, the Sleeping Giant, and the Merrow.

 

 

CHARLES. It’s 1673, and you sail in a dark, stormy night sea imagining what lurks below the waves. Maybe there’s a sea monster like the one that just washed up in the harbor. The fishermen at the pub said it had two heads, ten horns, and a body bigger than any horse. You imagine its inky-black tendrils rising up to crush the side of your boat.

FINLEY. This ‘Kraken’ was later identified as a giant squid, but other stories from Dingle, this tiny Irish fishing town, aren’t as easily explained. For centuries, locals have regaled each other with tales of mermaids, seal-people, and sleeping giants. I’m Finley, and these are my fellow hosts…

CHARLES. Charles!

SHAYA: Shaya.

NAOMI: And Naomi

FINLEY. This is a UC Santa Cruz study abroad production. Welcome to What’s Kraken?!

CHARLES. One of the most famous stories fishermen tell is that of the selkies, or sealfolk, who have the top half of a human and the bottom of a seal. Ciara O’Connell grew up in Dingle, hearing much about these mythical creatures.

CIARA. They come up onto the shore to play and dance with their sisters and they shed their seal coats and essentially one of them gets kidnapped and married. And eventually manages to run away (Play Shaya Running) back to her family and her sisters that she’s missed very much.

CHARLES. Huh. Pretty dark…

CIARA. I have also heard of a version where she can’t bring the children and they have to stay on land. She still appears to them at the beach with tears in her eyes. And that’s why seals always look like they’re crying.

SHAYA. Tomas, a guide at the Blasket Center, has another story that parallels the selkie myth– this time, about a mermaid. 

TOMAS.“ a man long ago, Mikii, who lived by Smervik Harbour… 

 SHAYA. He didn’t have much going for him. Except being a farmer. One early morning…

TOMAS. He went to the beach and behold, he saw on a rock, the most beautiful creature he had ever seen.  

SHAYA. A mermaid. 

TOMAS. And there she was, combing her sea-green hair, in the morning sunlight. And it reminded him of butter melting on a plate of cabbage. 

SHAYA. It’s said that if you were able to capture her diving cap, she would go home with you. The one time she had it off, Mikkel grabbed it.

TOMAS. She says, ‘Man, do not eat me when you bring me home.’ ‘I have no intention of eating you,’ says Mikkel. He had pity for her, and he grabbed her hand and he noticed there was little webs between her fingers, like the foot of a duck. He said, ‘Will you come home?’ She says, ‘I’ll go, I’ll come home with you.’ 

SHAYA.  Since Mikkel had stolen the cap, she lost the power of the sea. Before leaving  she left  a message to her father, king of the wave. Off they went to get married.

TOMAS. One day, Mikkel, he was away in Dingle.

TOMAS. And the mermaid, she was very house proud. So this day, she decided that she’d clean around the fireplace and the chimney breast. And she pulled back the Hessian sack, and she pulled out the netting, the fishing tackle. And what did she find behind all of that stored? Her diving cap. And she puts it on. And the power of the sea returns to her, and she sees her father’s cassock, and looking around the house, she sees her three kids, and with her sigh, she bids them goodbye, and goes down to Smerwick Harbour, and plunges into the sea.

TOMAS. And she’s never seen again.

NAOMI. Another myth is used to explain the shape of Inishtooskert, one of the Blasket Islands off the Dingle Peninsula. When viewed from the east, the island looks like a person laying on their back. It’s nicknamed ‘the sleeping giant,’ and its story has been around for centuries — most recently as a popular children’s book displayed in every Dingle bookstore. Nicolette Tillery, who works as the Dingle aquarium’s education director, remembers reading that story to her niece all the time. 

NICOLETTE. The Blaskets are a big grounding point for a lot of locals. People love this place. 

NAOMI. Nicolette even has a tattoo of the island. Anyways, the story goes…

NICOLETTE. “He was stepping on all of the villages and the pubs and the houses and everything. So a druid brewed a potion and put him to sleep. And that’s where he is in the sea.”

FINLEY. However, Ciara told us of a much darker version of the tale, one set in the time of the fairies. After all, the island’s other name is An Fear Marbh: the dead man.  

CIARA: “He made friends with the fairies and they invited him to their homeland, Tír na nÓg, the land of the young. But time there was all mixed up. And so he’s there and he’s whiling away the time with them and eventually he’s kind of like, ‘Oh, I best hit the road. Get back to the lads, wife and kids.; And they’re like ‘We’ll give you this horse, but like, just don’t get off the horse, whatever you do.’”

FINLEY: But when the giant returned home, things were different. Everything was smaller than he remembered, and he didn’t recognize the landscape. And then–

CIARA: he sees there’s been a bit of a rock slide and there’s a young boy trapped under a rock. So he leans down to help take the rock and he comes off the horse.

FINLEY: So he saves the boy, but something goes wrong. He starts feeling weak,

CIARA: and he stumbles backward into the ocean, falls and hits his head.

CIARA: And he’s been lying there ever since, waiting for his friends to come wake him.”

NAOMI: That ambiguity over how he fell asleep — whether you believe the children’s story or the darker version — is probably why the story still holds weight today.

NICOLETTE: “There’s a lot of fascination with him with visitors and children nowadays. When my niece comes to visit. She’ll be like, tell me stories about, An Fear Marbh. And so I’ll just kind of make up things. If you ask her where the waves come from, she says that it’s him snoring while he sleeps.”

NICOLETTE. “They take on a little bit of a tale of their own within current day.”

NAOMI: Personally, I’d like to think that the sleeping giant is just waiting patiently to be woken up in Ireland’s hour of greatest need. It’s kind of refreshing for an Irish story to leave room for imagination and hope, which I love. What do you think, Shaya?

SHAYA: I think the myths also have a moral aspect to them. They were used to pass on important messages: don’t take things that aren’t yours, don’t make enemies of the fairies… don’t kidnap women, etc.

CHARLES. I’ll keep that in mind!

FINLEY: Some locals like Ciara say they don’t believe in them, but others, like Tomas and Nicolette’s niece, absolutely do. 

CHARLES: I noticed that a lot of them seemed to start as ways to explain natural phenomena– like the seals looking like they’re crying, or the topography of the island!

NAOMI: I agree. I think…people take what they need from these stories. They get passed down through generations and Dingle’s really unique relationship to the sea continues. 

FINLEY: That’s all we have for this episode! Next time you’re by the ocean, watch for one of these fantastical beings. I’m Finley!

CHARLES. I’m Charles!

SHAYA. Shaya!

NAOMI: Naomi… And that’s what’s Kraken!

Guilt of the Guinness

Have you ever thought of becoming a bartender? Making drinks, meeting new people, hearing interesting stories, and making good money sounds like a dream job. Join UC Santa Cruz students, Jessica, Jordan, Amm, and Kat as we talk to Luke McNamara, a bartender at John Benny’s Pub in Dingle, Ireland, about what it’s really like behind the bar.

John Benny's Pub (outside)

Guilt of the Guinness

John Benny's (inside)

Transcript:

[music]

Jessica: Welcome to Dingle, a small town in the southwest corner of Ireland and home to over 50 pubs. We’re here for five weeks as part of the UC Santa Cruz Study Abroad program. Being able to go into pubs for the first time raised some questions on what it’s really like to be a bartender and encouraged us to explore the intricacies of life on the other side of the bar.

Kat: This is Jessica, Jordan, Am, and Kat, and we’re here to give it to you neat on what it’s like to be a bartender in one of the most notorious tourist destinations in Ireland. Welcome to the podcast Guilt of the Guinness.

Jordan: John Benny’s pub is located across from the Dingle Pier. Its exterior is painted a deep royal blue with three large windows above the shaded outdoor seating area. Walking through the bright orange front door, you’re greeted by the host, Ben, who points you into the direction of the bar. Sitting at the tall seats, you see dozens of alcohol bottles, dollar bills, and police badges taped onto the back wall of the bar.

Kat: Imagine a bustling room full of chatter and live music as you sip on your favorite drink to ease you into comfort. That’s exactly what a typical night at John Benny’s Pub is like, if you’re on the customer’s side.

Amm: Bartenders perform a graceful dance in constant motion as their quick hands appear to work independently, making your favorite drink while they give advice, tell stories and lend an ear. Have you ever thought you could be a bartender?

Luke: This is good fun while it lasts, but, you know, this isn’t forever.

Jessica: Meet Luke McNamara, a bartender at John Benny’s. He dresses like your typical 20 something year old, with straight cut jeans, a black polo tee, and his accessory, an ice latte. His eyes narrow as his smile widens, which happens quite often as he’s always cracking jokes. His brown hair lays flat against his forehead, from the sweat droplets as he rhythmically dashes from one side of the bar to the next, filling pines with Guinness, ringing up bills, and chatting with the old guy at the end of the bar about the soccer game.

Luke: My name is Luke McNamara. I’m a student and bartender.

Jordan: Luke has been bartending for six years, but his bartending career started before he could even legally drink.

Luke: I was stuck for cash when I was about 15. So I went down to my local pub and said, can I have a job? And they said, yes. So I started 15, just changing kegs, collecting glasses, running the food, doing the odd drink here and there.And I really shouldn’t have been.

Amm: Bartending entails much more than we originally thought.

Kat: Luke, could you describe what the job looks like for you?

Luke: You have to make drinks, serve drinks, you have to do it quickly. And you have to be able to talk to people. On a day to day basis, there’s at least 300 people coming over to our job at least. And I’d speak to 200 of them, even if it’s just hello. So after a summer, let’s say that’s what, a thousand people a week for ten weeks, you’ve met 10, 000 people in three months. So you have to have a base level of knowledge on pretty much everything. Okay. to hold at least a 30 second conversation whether it be about sport, politics, religion, what they had to be in a certain restaurant seven years ago.

Amm: Okay, 10, 000 people, 30 seconds each, that’s 300, 000 seconds of small talk, that’s 5, 000 minutes. Could you talk about anything for 30 seconds?

Jess: Yeah, like what if I asked you about magic mushrooms in Ireland?

Jordan: Oh my god, um, I think you’re better off asking Steve about that one.

Luke: I think bartenders as a whole tend to be chatty people, or are able to, there’s an Irish expression, the gift of the gab, where you can just talk about pretty much anything, get away with it.

Amm: Luke is currently working 55 to 65 hours a week at John Benny’s, with only one day off. Those Irish seem crazy. A typical full time work week is 40 hours. I mean, he must be exhausted.

Luke: I feel ancient, I’m 21. Lots of people think it’s a great idea, until they try and do it and the workload is just insane. And you’re never actually off work, ever. It’s more than full time.

Kat: So, it’s hard work. What about work life balance?

Luke: Trying to balance a social life and Full time job in hospitality is near nigh on impossible. So my day off is a Monday. Most people are off Saturday, Sunday. And then, let’s say people are doing stuff on a Friday night, I’m probably working until 1am. You tend to gravitate towards people in the same industry, quite often. Which you will see, a lot of people who work in one pub will hang out with people who work in a different pub, because your all hours kind of merge. It’s when you’re able to socialize.

Jess: The secret to working these long hours?

Luke: Caffeine and nicotine. I think it is just a natural stress relief. You just kind of go, and relax. And it takes you out of the environment as well. Because obviously, I can’t light up a cigarette behind the bar. But I think it becomes a habit.

Jordan: So, how do you relax once you’re off work?

Luke: You do take an hour or two to decompress. I kind of just sit at home, eat, scroll through my phone. I really don’t speak to anyone. I’ll say hello to my parents and I’ll just sit. I just kind of can’t because you spend all day speaking to people. Social battery is dead.

Kat: I don’t know how he does it. My social battery only lasts for a few hours.

Jess: Being around so many people can be draining, especially after dealing with people who’ve had a little too much to drink.

Luke: I’ve had people screaming and shouting and calling and shouting all sorts of abuse over the other side of the counter and you have to sit there and go, whatever, leave. Because you can’t be responsible for what might happen if they are beyond that point.

Jordan: So Luke, when they do get to that point, what do you do?

Luke: Cut them off straight away. And people really don’t like being told that. I had some guy try and fight me. He was just squaring up. He was like, we don’t have a bouncer where I work in England at the minute. So he’s like What are you going to do? You’re not involved, so what are you going to do about it? You know, and just, there’s no need. You just have to sit there and be calm and let it, let them get it out of their system.

Kat: Luke also shares how he’s considered walking away when he’s become too overwhelmed.

Jordan: So wait, was there ever a time you considered leaving the industry?

Luke: Oh God, yeah. I’ve, I’ve considered quite many places. I’ve never done it. I think everyone, anyone in hospitality who says they haven’t considered walking at least once is lying. They’re lying. Because some days it is just too stressful, it is just too much.

Amm: Even though the job can be strenuous, Luke keeps coming back to work.

Jess: What about this job makes him stick with it?

Luke: The money, mainly. I need to be able to afford to live.

Kat: After all these negatives, you start to wonder, are there any positives that come with bartending?

Luke: I like meeting new people, talking to everyone. I do actually like the serving, and also I do secretly enjoy it. I do enjoy the work I do, and I’m good at it now.

[Music: Bartender Blues “I’m just a bartending and I don’t like my work. But I don’t mind the money”]

Jordan: After talking with Luke and getting to know a little bit more about what he does for work Would you guys ever consider being a bartender?

Amm: I’ve considered it in the past, but now I’m not so sure I think I would do it.

Jess: As much hard work as it seems, it seems like he has a lot of fun doing it, and I think I would enjoy that.

Jordan: Yeah, for sure. He’s always talking to, like, a lot of different people, and he has a lot of cool stories, and he gets paid a lot of money, so. Yum.

Jess: What did we learn from this experience?

Jordan: Um, I learned a lot. I definitely have a greater appreciation for service workers, and, like, Since interviewing Luke, sitting at the pub, like, I just remember, like, Oh, the bartender’s a human, too. Like, I gotta treat them as a person.

Kat: Yeah, I agree. As a service worker myself, I can definitely understand where he’s coming from, and understand, like, the amount of work he does, and it just makes me more empathetic to service workers myself.

All/Kat: Thank you all for listening. This has been Jessica, Jordan, Am, and Kat on Guilt of the Guinness with Luke McNamara.

Shalanje!

[Music: Bartender Blues “I see lots of sad faces, and lots of bad cases, of folks with their backs to the wall.”]