Famine to Foodie is a podcast exploring how Irish food has changed over time. Join UCSC students Mimi, Austin, Sharon, Maddie, and Poema as we talk to Mark Murphy, owner of the Dingle Little Cheese Shop and the Dingle Cookery School, and Eilis Kennedy, singer and owner of John Benny’s Pub.

MARK: For most of the Irish people, it was survival rather than flavor.
EILIS: People want to know where their food is coming from.
MARK: The food is real.
MIMI: We’re here in the foodie town of Dingle, on the coast of County Kerry, Ireland. Fishing boats at the dock of this rural town are unloading their fresh catch. You can taste the sea salt in the wind, and hear the lively music coming out of the pubs along Main Street.
AUSTIN: It’s 5 o’clock at John Benny’s Pub, and the cozy dining room is full of smiles with people like us waiting to see if the food here really lives up to what they’ve heard.

SHARON: With our stomachs growling, we’ve opened the menu to find mouthwatering beef stews and fish pies! But a thought crossed our minds- has the food always been this diverse? Let’s find out on Famine to Foodie, a podcast from UC Santa Cruz study abroad students.
TOGETHER: We’re…
SHARON: Sharon
MIMI: Mimi
AUSTIN: Austin
MADDIE: Maddie
POEMA: and Poema
TOGETHER: Let’s dig in.
MADDIE: In 2014, Dingle was chosen from 10 finalists at the Irish Restaurant Awards. It was the number one Foodie Town in Ireland. And it’s no secret why, as you’re faced with countless options of phenomenal food. In restaurants, you might even meet the person running the show.
EILIS: My name is Eilis Kennedy. I run a restaurant and bar in Dingle, County Kerry, and I’m also a singer and a musician.

MIMI: Eilis has some ideas about the secret ingredients that make Dingle’s food magic.
EILIS: We are really lucky to have beautiful dairies, a gorgeous cheese maker, and really fresh fish.
MADDIE: Dairy from grass-fed cows has been a part of Kerry culture for years. But over a century and a half ago, food got scarce.
MADDIE: The potato crop failed from blight, and England’s control over Ireland kept the people starving.
POEMA: At the peak of the Irish famine in 1847, County Kerry had lost 30% of its population to starvation and migration.
POEMA: Even after the famine, food was minimal.
MARK: If you were here 30, 40 years ago, you would find that food wasn’t as exciting. And we’ve had a long history before that where food probably wasn’t as exciting in Ireland.

SHARON: That’s Mark Murphy, owner of the Dingle Cookery School and The Little Cheese Shop. He’s kinda a local food legend, like Dingle’s Gordon Ramsay.
AUSTIN: Mark grew up in County Carlow. But now he lives in Dingle, where he’s spent the past 20 years.
MARK: I’m from a family there, there’s five of us in total. So you’re going back to a time, a little bit of a different time when people didn’t have as much money, didn’t have as much access to shops.
POEMA: Like Mark, Eilis loved watching her mother cook.
EILIS: I don’t think she wasted anything ever, you know, because she was just really careful, she didn’t have a supermarket to go to, where she could buy like satsumas and peppers and olives, you know. Our fair was pretty straightforward. There wasn’t a whole lot of variety.
MIMI: Now, on every block in Dingle, you can find a grocery store filled with a variety of foods like instant curry noodles, gluten-free bread, and decaf coffee. But what changed?
MADDIE: In the early 1970s, “Ryan’s Daughter” was filmed in Dingle, and tourists flocked to see the beautiful seaside town portrayed in the movie. The demand for fancier food options changed things.

POEMA: The food scene has now transformed into a foodie scene!
MARK: We have an abundance of incredible seafood. Whether that’s fresh fish, whether it’s shellfish. But then when we look to the land some of our lamb here in West Kerry is some of the best in the world. Our beef is incredible. A lot of our animals compared to other countries like, we just take grass fed for granted because every animal is out.

SHARON: The pride in their incredible produce has allowed for confidence in their cooking to be done in more modern ways. Back then, fish would often be served with a butter sauce that would help mask its taste.
MARK: Whereas now you’re starting to find that to make that a little bit more modern and just lighten up everything. We’re going to just serve that piece of fish and maybe put something like a very simple dressing with it, you know? You should be able to taste the freshness of that fish.
SHARON: Food had always been kept simple due to necessity. But today it’s to showcase the quality of their ingredients!
AUSTIN: Dingle is now flooded with tourists, and being a restaurant owner is a stressful business. It means not just cooking for yourself but for locals and tourists with different palettes, lifestyles, and allergies in mind.
EILIS: With the awareness of allergens, which is a huge issue now. I mean, it probably was always an issue–you need to make maybe some gluten-free bread–and certainly at home. There was no question. I mean, you either liked something or you didn’t. Being allergic to something never sort of came into it. But we probably were allergic to things, you know?
AUSTIN: Due to tourists’ tastes changing, some traditional foods have gone out of fashion. For example, mutton pies, which are puffed pastries filled with sheep meat, have slipped off the menus, even at John Benny’s Pub.
EILIS: And this was a recipe that was used in this town for many, many decades. And, it was made in a really traditional way. And I used to make these in our pub until I would say about 2010 or 11? And then there was less and less kind of demand for them.
MADDIE: Over the years, people’s tastes have changed, and so has the food. But it is still simple, and still delicious.
EILIS: Our most popular dessert is probably the most enduring dessert, which is an apple cake. So that’s, that’s a recipe that we still have, people go crazy for it.
POEMA: That apple cake — it’s more than just a dessert. It’s a story, a memory, and a symbol of how Dingle holds onto tradition while embracing change.
MARK: For anyone that’s listening to this and they’re wondering like, should I go to Ireland and take on some food? I would say 100%, come here, do a little bit of homework, and you will have an amazing time.
MIMI: And that’s what we did. At John Bennys, five spoons later, we are trying the irresistible apple cake.
AT JOHN BENNY’S: Okay. Ready? Three, two, one.
Wow. You know. Appley. I’m not a pie person, but that’s some nice *bleep* pie. It’s a lot like a cheesecake, but like it totally like, especially with the crust for sure. Yeah, the crust is great. there was a lot of different flavors, like they all came in at like different times.
MARK: So yeah, I would just say, um, definitely look towards Irish food and hopefully, hopefully we’ll get to feed you sometime.
Team: Thank you for listening. We’re Mimi, Maddie, Sharon, Austin,
POEMA: and Poema studying here in Dingle, Ireland, and you’ve been listening to…
EVERYONE: Famine to Foodie!
Singing: FIREEEEEEEE YUH FIREEEE OH YEAH YEAH
































